Cutaway Attachment for Bender Jig
Source: Guitar Building Articles/Guitar Sides
Cutaway Attachment for Bender Jig:
If you already own or plan on purchasing the Heated Side Bender Jig, give this handy attachment some consideration as a supplemental companion.
The Cutaway Jig attaches directly to our Heated Side Bender (not the Unheated Version though), and allows you to easily bend that nasty cutaway that you see on so many handmade and production guitars.
Tools and Materials:
10″ Table Saw -or-
Band Saw
Jig Saw
Hand Drill
Laminate Router:
Taper Drill Countersink Set
2-Part Epoxy Glue
Titebond III Glue
Plastic Knobs
Stainless Steel Screws
3″ Galvanized or Copper Pipe
9″ Press Screw:
1/2″ Hitch Registration Pins:
Construction Notes:
This jig is relatively easy to construct, especially with the level of detail we arm you with on these plans. Simply assemble the appropriate 12mm and 19mm (1/2″ and 3/4″) pieces of cabinet grade plywood and attach each template to the plywood with spray adhesive. You can also choose to use the handy dimensions to do an actual layout if you like.
The Jig Side Construction:
Next cut the jig side pieces out with a band saw or table saw. Drill holes at each end of the movable compression block slot and cut the remainder out with a good quality Jig Saw or a stationary scroll saw.
Pre-drill all the pilot holes in all the plywood pieces for the screws.
Carefully drill the Pivot Hole and the Registration Pin holes in the plywood sides. Be very accurate with these pieces. Note: Convenient retainer pins to use are 1/2″ hitch pins that have handles and are very easy to move.
The Plywood Top:
Now drill the hole in the plywood top to allow for the Press Screw to travel. Attach the top flange of the press to the top plywood block.
Drill out the pilot holes using the Tapered Drill Countersink Bit Set.
Make The Compression Block Traveler Assembly:
Cut out the Wood Traveler hardwood and take a router to cut the 1″ deep channel for the aluminum bar.
Cut a length of 3″ copper or galvanized steel pipe and adhere it to the hardwood traveler compression block with epoxy glue. Likewise adhere the 1/4″ x 1″ aluminum bar to the hardwood traveler compression block.
Attach the bottom flange of the press screw to the compression block assembly.
Assemble The Jig:
Attach the jig top to the plywood wood side with glue and screw it securely in place. Insert the aluminum bar into the slots and position the wood traveler compression block.
Screw and glue the 12 mm plywood closures into place. (make sure that the traveler block and pipe attachment travels effortlessly before setting these sides into place.
Ultimate Guitar Building Tip: I would recommend that you only drill the registration pins in the cutaway attachment for right now and save the drilling in the actual bender jig when you have cut your molds, assembled then and test fit the attachment jig against the mold contour. Once satisfied drill through the already drilled registration holes in the cutaway jig, through the bender jig sides.
Here are a couple of items you will need. These will work perfectly with this jig:
9″ Press Screw:
1/2″ Hitch Registration Pins:
What The Plans Include:
Side Bender Jig At 50% Full Size Scale
Plywood and Compression Block Templates @ 100% Scale
(4) Different Guitar Shapes Templates @ 100% Scale Which Include:
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Tags: bending a guitar cutaway, bending guitar sides, cutaway attachment for side bender, fox side bender
December 20th, 2010 at 9:10 am
Nice site .. I am tilting whether the piece of wood should to be bent should be thicknessed down at the point of the cutaway !!!
I
December 20th, 2010 at 9:30 am
Hi Alex,
There are several ways you can make the tight bend of the cutaway much easier to bend.
Method #1 can be just as you suggest – thin down the piece of side material to make the bend. You could easily do this by thinning about .5 to .7 mm and the wood will mold much easier. Then you should apply a few more side reinforcements inside the cutaway to keep this piece from cracking.
Method #2 is to soak the piece very thoroughly before bending. also make sure the bender is up to full heat before doing so. If you hear any fiber pulling apart, let it cool and re-soak and start again and you should be able to finish the bend.
Method #3 is to pre-bend the piece on a heated pipe to about 3/4′s of the bend amount as it is much easier to control the stress on a pipe. Then soak the piece and finish the bend on the cutaway attachment.
The type of wood will govern how much stress you can place on the wood. This also varies with the grain of the wood. Often small stresses in the waist area can be sanded away. If you have a major break however, there will a visible line where the break is.
If you have ever worked with F5 style Mandolin sides you will realize how tightly wood can be bent. I have worked with 1/8″ thick Curly Maple and have bent it as tight as a 1″ radius!
Let me know how you come out.
David